Showing posts with label Cairo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cairo. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

The Cuisine of Cairo = Koshary?

In the hour it took to get to our hotel we saw some strange sights from the car window. Amongst them were:

  • A man in his little hatchback with a motorbike taking up the rest of the space in the car
  • Donkeys pulling carts barely holding the weight of their load holding up the traffic
  • Clinically insane pedestrians such as families of seven people dodging and weaving through the hectic traffic altogether

It was a sensory overload; it made your head dizzy trying to take in everything at once. For a Northern African city of approximately 17 million people, with a such a contrasting culture to any other that we had experienced so far, I'm not surprised at the extent of our wonderment.

Another not so amusing sight (and smell!) you would come across very often is smoking, everyone in Egypt smokes, constantly. They smoke in their vehicles (thank god we ordered a car or I would’ve been stuck in a smoky taxi for over an hour), they smoke inside restaurants, in shops, museums, everywhere! I felt like I was put into a time warp where smoking was still allowed and the stale cigarette smell is a common occurence. Not only do they smoke cigarettes, but there are sisha cafes everywhere, a lot of them men’s only affairs where they meet up to socialise over sisha. Smoking in any form is big in Egypt.

Melon sisha

On the way to the hotel we wanted to try the local food, so we asked our guide to help us find some. I had done some research and in particular wanted to try Koshary which is a mix of pasta, lentils, chickpeas and onions. We bought a serving each which only cost approx AUD$5! We also received two bags of sauce each, one was spicy tomato and the other one was some sort of vinegar mix.

Koshary

I was surprised that this strange mix of ingredient actually tasted really good! The tomato and pasta of course went well together, with the lentils and chickpeas adding a nice texture along with the crunch of the fried onions. It was lucky we did like the Koshary as we would encounter quite a lot during our 2 week stay. Unfortunately the rest of the food in Egypt was less than inspiring, it was hard to find any good restaurants with quality food.

Koshary condiments

We were set to meet the rest of our Gecko’s tour group the next night at a group meeting. Unfortunately we were a little late as I forgot to change the time on everything! Luckily we didn’t miss much and we had a run through about what we would expect on our 12 day stay. I was so restless with excitement because I just couldn’t wait until we could begin to see some sights. So we decided to book in an optional extra to see the first pyramids of Memphis and Saqqara the next day.

Monday, January 17, 2011

The Chaos of Cairo


Pyramid and the Sphinx

As we were flying into Cairo, we were peering out of the aeroplane window frantically trying to get a glimpse of the famed pyramids in the dying light of the Egyptian sunset. Unfortunately Cairo was blanketed by a thick haze of smog, making it difficult to see anything from the viewpoint of the plane. We had a transfer car pick us up to drop us off at our accommodation, the Pharaoh Hotel in Dokki. The transfer company sent us a driver and a guide/translator, she was friendly girl who told us about the buildings we were passing as we went along.


Nile View from Pharaoh Hotel Restaurant

The newly redeveloped area near the airport and President’s Cairo residence was a stark contrast to the 3rd world reality of the rest of the city. Cairo is a chaotic jumble of unfinished buildings, transport, sand, people, rubbish, noises, and smells and of course the Nile. The transport and traffic is another whole insane story. Cars, camels, donkeys and trucks are all vying for a space on the overcrowded roads with no rules. Traffic signals and lanes are not even acknowledged let alone adhered to. Somehow all this manages to function in its own crazy way.


The streets of Cairo

Our guide told us ‘The traffic here has its own flow and you need to drive with that flow, if you were to drive according to the road rules in Egypt, that is when you would get into an accident’. I think this a great metaphor for this city that defies any definition. In Egypt you need to go with the flow and do what feels right because if you don’t that’s when something will go wrong.


Traditional feluccas on the Nile